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Miss Helene's Vintage Patterns Information
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Are vintage patterns worth selling?
Yes and no. Patterns are easy to list, but they frequently take a while to find the right buyer. Some patterns are always going to sell; others may take a while before they get a bid. In general, other than a few exceptions, patterns are best listed in a store, until someone comes along looking for that particular one. Some patterns are a sure thing -- 50s sarong/halter dresses for example, or a Pucci Vogue, but you never know what will set off a bidding war, if someone decides that they must have it. The rare pattern will sell at auction for a premium, but most will sell for much less. Patterns are also a good way to lead people to your store if people sew vintage, it's likely that they wear vintage. They may end up buying both a pattern and some clothing.
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What year is this pattern from?
Year doesn't matter as much as era. Don't put specific years in your listing. Instead, it's best to put 1940s or 40s, as that is how most people search. If you want to know the specific year, look all over the pattern's envelope and instructions if it's Simplicity or McCalls, the copyright date is likely there. Other companies make it more of a challenge. Also, check out the book "Blueprints of Fashion," by Wade Laboissonniere. It is a set of two books that chronicle pattern history in the 40s and 50s, and is invaluable in the information it gives. Check it out from your library, or buy it online it's an invaluable resource to pattern sellers.
Pattern numbers were reused, so frequently dating is done by looking at hairstyles, shoes and accessories.
If you want to know the exact year, here's some places to look on the envelope, listed by maker:
Advance(stopped printing in 60s) -- didn't print dates on patterns
Burda(still in print) -- dates printed on the back
Butterick(still in print) -- rarely printed dates till the 80s, when they were printed on the envelope's back
Dubarry(stopped printing in 40s) -- no printed dates
Hawaiian Polynesian patternsmostly 60s and 70s patterns -- usually on back, in Roman numerals
Hollywood stopped printing in the 40s - no dates.
Mail order like Marian Martin, Anne Adams, etc.(stopped printing in 70s) - no dates but you can date from the meter stamp, sometimes (see below)
McCalls(still in print) -- pretty much always have dates on the envelope
New York(stopped printing in 30s or 40s) -- no dates
Simplicity(still in print) - On most envelopes or bottom back page of instructions 1939-1960's. From the 1960's to present, will be on the back in small print.
Vogue(still in print) - Some 1950's & early 60's are printed on the envelope back. Otherwise difficult as you won't find a date until the 1980s!Here's s little helpful info on starting dates of the different Vogue lines, from http://www.butterick.com/bhc/pages/articles/histpgs/about.html
Vogue Couturier - as early as 1937
Vogue Paris Originals - 1949
Vogue Americana - started in 1967
Individualist - 1984
Vogue Attitudes - 1990
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Do only collectors buy patterns?
No. Most buyers actually plan to sew with the pattern, though there are a number of collectors as well.
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Do I need to count the pieces?
It will save you a lot of emails if you count pieces before listing.
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Are patterns with missing pieces or instructions still worth anything?
Yes. Many professional sewers don't mind a missing piece or two, or with missing instructions. (I have one particular customer who says that all she really needs is a bodice piece, and she can figure it out from there. She frequently mixes and matches skirts and bodice pieces to come up with a custom garment, and says that skirt pieces are very easy to make.) Some can make the pattern with only the instructions. Some just collect the envelopes. And if you have a batch of ones that are just almost empty, market them as a lot for scrapbooking. If the directions are missing, you can still list the pattern -- this is usually only worth it if it's a unique pattern like a big envelope Vogue, or something really special. If the instructions are missing, you can determine if pieces are missing by looking at the envelope -- it usually will list how many pieces are included in the original pattern. In some cases, the envelope does not mention this, so just say how many pieces you have, or put it into a lot of patterns to sell together. You do not need to attempt to mend a damaged envelope or pattern piece -- collectors will do this themselves, if they choose to. (I've actually sold patterns with no envelope, or with envelopes that were in tatters, and even one completely empty one!)
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What about men's and children's patterns?
Men's and children's patterns tend to sell more slowly. Particularly popular patterns of this genre are 30s and 40s men's pants (very, very difficult to find, as not as many were made), purses and hats pre 1960s, bowties and neckties, and infant layette patterns from the 50s and earlier. Also, small toddler patterns frequently sell to doll collectors. Sailor dresses are good sellers too.
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What's the best time of year to sell patterns?
Anytime, though coat patterns sell best in winter, swimsuits in spring, and 50s rockabilly sells best before spring.
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What category do I list them in?
Collectibles Vintage Sewing Sewing Patterns OR, if they are modern, Crafts Sewing Sewing Patterns, then the specific subcategory (women's, accessories, etc.)
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Why are the pattern pieces blank tissue paper? I thought they were supposed to have printing on them.
Pattern pieces usually didn't have printing until roughly the early to mid 50s, though some printed ones are seen as early as the 20s. The unprinted pattern was used by matching notches and holes in the tissue paper pieces. If you have an unprinted pattern, you might want to mention that in the listing, as some home sewers are not familiar with how to use them. As a side note, some of the very earliest patterns do not have instructions with them, as women generally were proficient in sewing, and could construct garments without instructions. If you have one of the very early 1900s patterns that doesn't have instructions, be sure to mention it in the listing.
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Need tips on titles?
Highly searched words are apron and Vogue. Otherwise, list the era/decade: 30s, 40s, etc. For the most part, you can list pattern, without listing Sewing Pattern (saves characters). It can be helpful to list the pattern number in the title. Many people list them like this: Simplicity 9345 would be listed as S9345. Listing a size in the title can be helpful, but not mandatory. Generally, titles are done as "Vintage 30s Wiggle Dress Pattern B8547" with an adjective or size (swing, full circle, etc.) and bust size (32 or B32) added, as characters allow. Look at completed auctions to see what seems to work best.
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Can I tell the age of a mailorder pattern by the metered stamp postage?
Believe it or not, there are metered postage collectors, so if you have a pattern with metered postage, be sure to show a closeup of the meter stamp, and list the meter number in your auction. Metered stamp collectors will buy them, just for the stamp.
Here's some info gleaned from a meter stamp collector:
If they were sent first class mail, the meter stamp should be dated.
For undated meters:
If the meter says "SEC 562 PL&R" or similar, it
is probably from the 1930's to the early 1950's.
Usually 1 cent or 1 1/2 cent meter. 1 1/2 cent
meter with SEC 562 would probably be early 1950's.
If the meter says "SEC 34.66 PL&R" or similar, it
is probably 1950's. Usually 1 1/2 cent meter.
If the meter says "BULK RATE", the postage amount
will allow you to narrow it down more:
2 1/2 cent meter = July 1960 to Dec 1962
2 5/8 cent meter = 1963
2 3/4 cent meter = 1964
2 7/8 cent meter = Jan 1965 to Dec 1967
3 6/10 (3.6) cent meter = Jan 1968 to Jun 1969
3 8/10 (3.8) cent meter = Jul 1969 to May 1971
Decimal postage rates 4.8 up on PB meter numbers
below 100,000 are usually May 1971 to early 1980's.
The serial number of the meter may give clues:
PB meters with 4-digit seial numbers are usually 1945 or earlier.
PB meters with 5-digit number 01000 to 01549 are
usually from 1933 into the 1940's. Same for PB 55000 to 56999.
PB meters with 5-digit number 01550 to 01999 are late 1930's into the 1950's.
PB meters with 5-digit numbers 05000-05499 are
usually 1960's or 1970's. Same for PB 54000 to 54999.
PB meters 57000 to 59999 can be late 1930's into the 1970's.
Patterns with PB meters with 6-digit serial
numbers are usually 1980 or later. These meters
were around earlier, but the pattern companies usually didn't use them sooner.
The patterns most likely to have a collectible meter stamp are:
1960's to early 1980's with PB meters with 5-digit serial numbers.
Any date with a non-PB meter.
PB meters with 4-digit serial numbers.
Believe it or not, I've had a buyer who even collected the printed postage on the envelope in which I mailed him a pattern!
Zip codes can also be a clue. Zip codes originated July 1, 1963, however, they were not mandatory until 1967. The Zip+4 numbers were first seen in 1983, but are optional, even today.
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How do you ship patterns?
Place them into a plastic envelope or baggie, put a sturdy piece of cardboard or backing board into the envelope, and write or stamp "Do Not Bend" on the outside of the envelope. Patterns CANNOT be sent via media mail, as they do not meet the USPS requirements. They can be sent first class, but we generally suggest placing a packing peanut or foam into the envelope, to increase the width of the envelope so you can add Delivery Confirmation. If the envelope is less than 3/4" in width, you cannot add delivery confirmation.
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What opening bid or BIN should I put on a pattern?
While we cannot suggest a specific bid, we can suggest that you check completed auctions for similar items, to get an idea of what works well. Vogues can usually be priced a bit higher than other patterns, as well as special patterns like halter dresses or special 20s and 30s patterns. Some patterns are best listed in your ebay store. Again, check completed auctions, and if there doesn't seem to be a market, park it in your store till the right person comes along.
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How do I care for and store patterns?
Patterns should be carefully refolded into the original folds and placed back into the envelope, whenever possible. If the pieces are quite wrinkled, consider ironing them, with the iron set on the lowest setting, with NO steam. Sometimes pattern pieces will not fit easily back into the envelope, or the envelope may be too fragile to accommodate replacement of the pieces. In this case, simply store them into a ziplock bag. It is very important to keep patterns away from humidity, so do not store them in a basement or storage unit where the environment will not be kind to the fragile paper.
Storage of patterns can be very easy. For easiest access, place them into a box in numerical order, and when you sell one, itll be easy to find. I use printer paper boxes, as they are easy to get and come with a nice lid, which makes them stackable. I get mine at work, but you can also get them at the UPS store, or similar places, for 50 cents or even free.
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What details should I put in my listing?
Pattern number, size, measurements (vintage sizes are different from new ones), and a photo or scan. Scans are best, because they show the detail, and if you have the patience, scan the back of the envelope as well as the front. (This saves you a lot of email questions.) Mention if the pattern is complete, and it's also worth it to mention if there is significant damage or a missing envelope (though this may not affect whether or not it sells).
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Where can I get more information?
Here's a link to information that macojero and misshelenes put together, regarding selling patterns:
http://www.mainstreetvintage.com/lisa/patterninfo.html
Here's a few more reference sites:
Butterick Pattern History
Simplicity Pattern history
The Vintage Fashion Guild's info about vintage patterns
Info on patterns from costumes.org
Fashion-era.com's info about sewing with 1950s patterns
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If the information we've given you hasn't answered your question, please post your question, or email me, and I'll try to help you out. Please post a photo of the envelope, if possible, including the pattern number.
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Website design and copyright © 2006 by Stephen B. Henry
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