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Main Street Mall Online

Miss Helene's Vintage Pattern Shoppe

VINTAGE PATTERN CHEAT SHEET

[GENERAL TIPS & RULES | HOT COMMODITIES ]
[ Advance | Burda | Butterick | DuBarry | Hawaiian | Hollywood | Kwik Sew | Mail Order | McCalls ]
[ Mme Demorest | Modes Royale | New York | Prominent Designer | Simplicity | Spadea | Superior | Vogue ]


~ Advance ~
    
---1940's---1950's---early 1960's---mid-1960's---

  • NO printed dates on patterns.
  • Dated from 1940's- late 1960's.
  • Featured a line of designer patterns in 1950's (Adrian, Edith Head, Joseph Love, Gloria Swanson and Anne Fogarty)
  • The first company authorized to make Barbie patterns.
  • Converted to printed patterns later than the other companies.
  • Some early 1960's have cut to size patterns, which is earlier than other companies. Many 1940's and some 1950's are UNPRINTED & perforated.

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    ~ Burda ~

  • FIND DATES: Usually printed on back.
  • Americans first saw these appear in the 1970's.
  • Had a reputation for being difficult to sew, due to the fact that they contained multiple sizes, and were printed without seam allowances.
  • They are often written in multiple languages which can be a selling point.
  • I know that some people post Want It Nows for Burda, but I don't think that I have ever sold one, though I do have a few listed in my store.
  • They are not considered "fashion forward," like Vogue or Butterick are, but are good examples of the fashions of the day.

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    ~ Butterick ~
           
    ---1920's-------1930's-------1940's-------1950's-------1960's-------1970's---

  • FIND DATES: Hardly ever printed on patterns until the 1980's. Gauge by shoes & the fashions!
  • Packaged and sold the very first paper sewing patterns.
  • 1863 - Started offering boys' and mens' patterns, 1866 - the first womens' patterns were sold.
  • Early 1920's - More detailed instructions (a "Deltor") were included with the pattern. The Deltor's name was taken from the first and last letters of the Delineator, Butterick's fashion magazine.
  • 1948 -- Butterick began printing marks on their patterns - prior to this, the patterns were merely plain tissue paper, and the seamstress would create the garment by matching holes and notches in the pattern. (As a side note, Butterick's most popular pattern of the 1950's was 6015, dubbed the "walkaway" dress. It was so easy you could "start it after breakfast and walkaway in it for lunch.")
  • The Young Designer series from the 60's and 70's features favorites such as Betsey Johnson & Jean Muir.
  • Buttericks sell very well, as they are considered "fashion forward," but it can be very difficult to find dates on early Buttericks, as dates were not printed on them until 1950.

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    ~ DuBarry ~
      
    ---Late 20's-Early 30's---Late 1930's/Early 1940's------Early to Mid 1940's---

  • FIND DATES: Not printed on patterns.
  • Short lived company that produced some highly collectible 'swing' styles and comfort fashions.

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    ~ Hawaiian patterns ~
  • FIND DATES: Usually in roman numerals on envelope back.
  • Usually for muu muus and Hawaiian style dresses.
  • Check the children's patterns for accompanying DOLL clothing, they sell well.
  • Polynesian & Patterns Pacifica are popular lines.
  • These do well in the warmer months, for obvious reasons.

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    ~ Hollywood ~
      
    ---1940's General Style-----1940's 'Four Star' Formal---1940's Starlet Fashions---

  • FIND DATES: Not printed on patterns.
  • Printed from the late 1930's through 1947..
  • Very desirable patterns, especially the ones with pictures of movie stars on the front. The more recognizable the star, the better these sell.
  • They often marketed fashions from movies and notate the starlet & movie on the front cover.
  • They are usually unprinted and/or perforated.
  • There are many, many collectors of these patterns.

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    ~ Kwik Sew ~

  • FIND DATES: On envelope back.
  • Originally named Sew Knit and Stretch & originated in 1967.
  • 1974 - Name was changed to Kwik Sew.
  • Usually found uncut; you were supposed to trace the size you needed, so you'll often find 'extra' bits in the pattern.
  • Kwik Sew's specialty was patterns using knits/stretch fabrics. First patterns were for sweaters.
  • Glossy paper, not "fashion forward," but simple wardrobe "staples."
  • There are about 850 patterns in this collection, so the pattern numbers are smaller than other companies.

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    ~ Mail Order Patterns ~
        
     ---1920's----1930's----1940's----1950's----1960's---


  • FIND DATES: Not printed unless postmarked on envelope.
  • Available via newspapers & magazines from the 1930's through the 1980's.
  • Earlier Anne Adams, Laura Wheeler & Marian Martin patterns can be very desirable, especially with the original envelopes. There are buyers who will bid on them strictly for the metered postage ~ Be sure to scan a closeup of the metered postage, and try to include the meter number (located at the bottom of the stamp) in the auction. Those metered postage collectors will pay $5 each for the envelopes, and then jump for joy that you sent it in an envelope with metered postage (if you use stamps.com or the like).
    The only way to date Mail Order patterns is by the style or the postage, there are no printed dates on them. You'll get a vibe viewing the hairstyles, & fashions!
  • Many do not have the original mailing envelope. The illustration & fabric requirements are on the pattern instructions themselves.

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    ~ McCalls ~
         
    ---1920's---1930's----1940's----1950's----1960's---

  • FIND DATES: ALWAYS on envelopes. Bless them.
  • McCall's patterns contain a copyright date
    **on the envelope in 1920's
    **on the flap in 1930's
    **on the edge of the pattern -- 1940's to now.
    Started in 1920's (prior to that, was Pictorial Review).
  • Some of the earliest 1920's patterns featured designers like Lanvin, Schiaparelli, Mainbocher, and Patou.
  • 1950's-1960's had a line called "New York Designers Line Plus," which featured popular American designers like Claire McCardell, Pauline Trigere, and Geoffrey Beene, as well as Givenchy designs.
  • Patterns are labeled McCall until 1951, after which time the ‘s was added, making the name McCall's.

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    ~ Mme. Demorest ~
  • VERY collectible patterns from the 1800's. I personally have never seen one.
  • These were only made from 1860-1887, when the company was sold.

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    ~ Modes Royale ~
  • Another HIGHLY sought after mail-order company from the 1950's-1960's, featured stylish suits and sensational cocktail gown dresses.

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    ~ New York - New York Gold Seal ~

    ---1940's---

  • These were printed in the late 1930's through the 1940's.
  • No dates were printed on these patterns; check shoes, hairstyles & fashions for a best guess.

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    ~ Prominent Designer/~ Prominent American Designer ~

  • Mail order patterns from the 1950's and 1960's, featured designers like Oleg Cassini and Mr Blackwell (of the Best/Worst Dressed List).
  • Depending upon the style, sell fairly well.

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    ~ Simplicity ~
        
    ---Late 1930's----Early 1940's----1950's-----1960's---


  • FIND DATES: On most envelopes or bottom back page of instructions 1939-1960's. From the 1960's to present, will be on the back in small print.
  • Founded in 1927.
  • Known to be very user friendly, these patterns normally show everyday American styles.
  • These are some of the most common patterns to find, and sell like crazy, though for lower prices than Vogue or the more "fashion forward" designs will.
  • Many people want to buy Simplicity to have their own prom dress pattern, or an outfit from their growing up years.
  • Many, many moms used these to sew for their children.

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    ~ Spadea ~


  • Another mail order pattern that is quite collectible.
  • Featured designs from the 1950's-1960's, with designer names such as Ceil Chapman, Irene Gilbert, Jo Copeland, Suzy Perette and Lachasse of London.

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    ~ Superior ~
     
    ---1920's-------1940's---


  • FIND DATES: Judge by fashions; Printed until the 1940's.
  • Unprinted patterns, hard to come by.

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    ~Vogue Timeline~

     1940's-----1950's-------1960's-------1970's

        
     Special Design--Early Couturier--60's Couturier--Paris Original--Individualist--Attitudes

  • FIND DATES: Some 1950's & early 60's are printed on the envelope back. Otherwise difficult as you won't find a date until the 1980s!
  • Started in 1905 by Conde Nast. The name was copyrighted by Butterick in 1961, but the companies have separate identities, they did not merge into one company.
  • Pre-1913 Vogue was known as "Vogue Pattern Department"; afterwards it became "Vogue Pattern Service."
  • Started as mail-order patterns, and bought for a price of 50 cents.
  • 1917 -Vogue patterns appeared in major department stores
  • 1920 - began publishing the Vogue Pattern Book in 1920 - prior to that, the patterns were published in Vogue Magazine.
  • 1937 - Couturier patterns began appearing in the Pattern Book, but were not exact duplicates of the runway styles.
  • 1949 - Paris Original pattern line began. Paris Originals are very "fashion forward," and are very popular. Vogue was the only company licensed to produce the couturier patterns, with the most popular ones being the French designers, especially Yves St Laurent and Givenchy (think Jackie and Audrey!). They specifically contracted with 8 famous French Couturiers including Schiaparelli, Paquin, Balmain, Fath, Molyneux, Lanvin and Heim to provide a couture pattern service. However these were often difficult for the average home sewer - they contain tons of pieces and many women took classes just to learn how to sew these glamorous styles.
  • 1967 - The Americana series started, and featured prominent designers such as Teal Traina, Oscar de la Renta, and Chester Weinberg.
  • 1970's - Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Anne Klein, Geoffrey Beene, and Bill Blass became favorites, and the British and Italian designers were added, including Bellville-Sassoon.
  • 1984 - Vogue Individualist line started, featuring new designers like Issey Miyake (probably the most sought after of the Vogue patterns, possibly because less of them were printed, I'm not sure), Isaak Mizrahi, and Claude Montana (also quite popular, though not as much so as Miyake).
  • 1990 - The Individualist patterns were replaced by the Vogue Attitudes line, which featured designers like Anna Sui, Byron Lars, and Isabel Toledo.
  • Multisize patterns were first seen in the mid 1970's, from most companies.
  • Easy to Sew patterns started in the 1950's.

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    ~ GENERAL TIPS & RULES ~

  • Pattern price can vary widely, depending upon the desirability of the style and size. Keep in mind that large envelope Vogues (like Americana, Vogue Basic Design, Vogue Courturier, Paris Original, etc) usually get higher prices than the small envelopes, but any vintage 1950's & earlier formal pattern will sell well - most will sell even if they are missing pieces or instructions.
  • Don't let a frayed envelope keep you from listing a pattern. While there are pattern collectors out there, most bidders buy patterns to sew with, so if it's a cute style and is complete, list it anyway. You can always scan the style from the instruction sheet. Notate if the fabric requirements are present or not.
  • Be sure to include measurements in your listings, as vintage sizes are much different than modern ones. If you don't include the actual measurements, be prepared for people to email, requesting them. Note that the earliest of patterns either did not include instructions, or printed them directly on the envelope, as most women knew how to sew, so they didn't need instructions.
  • Be sure to put in your listing whether the pattern is printed or unprinted, there's a degree of difficulty involved in using an unprinted pattern so be fair to your buyer and let them know.
  • Don't let small sizes of patterns scare you off, as many seamstresses know how to adjust pattern size, and will buy a pattern in any size, then make the adjustments they need.
  • Take care when shipping patterns as most are QUITE fragile. Best shipping in plastic poly bags, with a cardboard backing board, (comic book bags & boards are PERFECT) in a large manila envelope. Mark it "FRAGILE-Do Not Bend," and off it goes.

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    ~ HOT COMMODITIES ~
  • Fancy vintage full skirt formals
  • Sexy wiggle cocktail styles.
  • Aprons
  • Doll clothes
  • Older baby layette items
  • Smaller girl's patterns will sell, the cuter & older, the better. Otherwise, best in lots.
  • Fuller figure sizes
  • Mens' favorites: Rockabilly-Rat Pack shirts, trousers, boxer shorts, double breasted jackets, Nehru jackets, and 70's stuff.
  • Millinery (hat) and purse (especially clutch) patterns are hot hot hot, if from the 1950's or older
  • Vintage gloves and mittens, & shawls.

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